_______________________________________________________________________________ One final EXTRAORDINARY note was the amazing luck of being able to meet up with an old friend from Washington, DC who was posted at the Consulate General of the United States of America in St. Petersburg. And with him, I was invited as his guest to a birthday dinner for a Russian friend. In Russia, and in other Slavic counties, the tradition is to host your own birthday celebration. We arrived promptly just moments past 8pm and were greeted by our host, Alexander (Sasha), who showed us into the drawing room. There we found 11 of the 16 expected guests seated around the room -- but much to our surprise, everyone was reading books or looking at folios of art -- no one was talking. We took our seats and waited quietly, whispering to each other about how obviously different customs can be. Finally the last of the guests arrived and were ushered directly into the dining room. ( I had now seen the entrance hall, drawing room, central square reception hall and the dining room -- 4 rooms and no sign yet of the kitchen or bedroom(s) -- this was a big apartment, even by American standards -- and had been in our hosts family for three generations -- one must assume though that they had to share with other families during the Soviet era...). The dining table was fully set with placecards (mine in English -- "Jan's Friend"). Everyone spoke Russian (of course) but I did recieve occasional translations, and several of the guests spoke briefly in their best English -- but this was a Russian's party for Russian friends - I was the outside observer. On the table was a bountiful assortment of 30 small plates of a varietyof dishes of caviar, salmon, ham, herring, five different salads, breads, fruits and more . . . the idea was to serve ones self and not have to reach far because of the many service plates. Also scattered amongst the food were bottles and bottles of Russian Champagne, California red wines, Glenlivet Scotch, Stolichnaya Vodka, adn a dark Russian concoction. And since it was a birthday celebration, there were toasts -- expected of each guest and often lasting 3-5 minutes in lenght -- they take remembering friendships very seriously -- not just words but vodka too. I, not knowing the host except for meeting at the door, was spared but for the raising of the glass. And the evening went on with more courses to follow going late into the evening. What an experience!
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